Sakura, Bunraku, and Sayonara, Nihon!

For our last day in Japan, we did some administrative things (or tried to), and managed to see some cherry blossoms which were finally out in Osaka. Not exactly the full experience we had hoped for, but better than nothing. Foregoing more time in Kyoto for our Okinawa trip was definitely worthwhile, and I have a feeling we lucked out with the weather the particular week we chose. In any event, I have some photos of cherry (sakura) blossoms, as well as Mt. Fuji from the homeward-bound plane.

Our last afternoon we met up with Norbert-san for a couple hours of bunraku, Japanese puppet theater. The story, called "Sugawara Denju Tenarai Kagami" or "Sugawara's Secrets of Calligraphy", was one of the masterpieces of the bunraku repertoire and included everything one could want in a puppet show (treachery, dishonor, a birthday party, pretty ladies, puppet fights, and ritual suicide). To be less waggish, the puppetry was really remarkable, with three puppeteers controlling each (approximately half-life-sized) puppet. The main puppeteer was fully visible, and he controlled the major movement of the puppets, as well as the subtle artistry and facial expressions. The two helpers controlled the left arm and the legs, and they wore black outfits with black hoods, which was actually a bit disconcerting. Black is apparently the traditional color of invisibility, though they were clearly visible.

The dialogue was sung or chanted by one or several joruri reciters, situated on a platform well to the right of the main stage. Sometimes one reciter played all parts, varying his voice for different characters (men and women). At one point there were four reciters, one for each character, adding volume to an argument and fight scene. The recitation reflected the emotion of the puppet, with incredible synchronization considering neither the reciter nor puppeteer were looking at each other. In fact, the facial expressions of the puppet were mirrored by the reciter, and it was interesting to watch them cry or laugh. (The puppeteers were mostly expressionless, with one or two exceptions.)

The shamisen player sat with the reciters, and provided musical accompaniment and sound effects (wind, battle sounds, and the like). These three skills (puppeteer, recitation, and shamisen) take years to master, and at least in the old days a trio of artists would often work together throughout their careers, forming the necessary relationship to perform this difficult art.

Today we returned to the States, our vacation and my six-month stint in Japan both completed. Here ends the blog, thank you all for your interest and your emails of support! It was quite an experience, and I'm sure I'll be returning, though for periods of briefer duration, in the near future.

Osaka ni Kaerimasu

Yesterday was our last full day in Okinawa, and we did the usual routine of getting up for lunch (brunch, really) then lying on the beach all day. Swimming and rafting were intermixed. The weather was beautiful, and the water was even warmish, depending on whom you ask.

For dinner we finally tried Okinawan cuisine at a local place called Ura-Niwa, or "backyard garden". It was, indeed, in the backyard of a store on the main drag, and it was a lot of fun. I'd heard pork was a specialty of Okinawan cuisine, moreso than Japanese cuisine, and the grilled pork in miso sauce was really, really good. So was the fish dish we got, along with the appetizers of tuna tartar, carpacchio, and various other things I can no longer remember. I'm getting hungry just thinking about it. After dinner we stopped at the Blue Seal ice cream/sushi shop. Michelle had chocolate and "sugar cane", which was yummy. I had squid in a sugar cone. Just kidding. It was actually a waffle cone.

Today we checked out of the hotel, and spent a couple hours enjoying the beach before boarding the bus for the airport and returning to Osaka. I have some photos of these activities, including the collection of orchids at the Okinawa Naha airport. Quite somethin'.

Hamabe ya umi ya nikkou

It was a rough day today. Busy, busy, busy. First, the weather had cleared up, and it was bright and sunny. So we went straight from brunch to the beach, where we spent the rest of the daylight hours. We did a lot of work lying on the beach, lying on a raft, and floating in the water. Michelle did see a wacky fish, yellow with some stripeys and a big black spot. It swam off before she could ask what it was.

Aside from that adventure, we watched the sunset and then had dinner at a BBQ (Korean-style) place on the hotel terrace. We have photos of both of those events.

Hana wa kirei desu

Yesterday the weather wasn't quite as sunny as Friday, but it was nice and warm, so we spent a long time on the beach and wandering around on the lava rocks and tidal pools. It was good to spend time in the sun, lying on a bobbing raft. I'm falling asleep just thinking about it. We also took some photos of the multitudes of hibiscus and other flowers around the hotel grounds.

For dinner we went back to the Italian place to try some different pizzas. The hostess was happy to see us back. We got a very good four-cheese pizza, along with what Michelle calls the "stupidest pizza ever", a puffy crust deflated at the table (ala a poori) and cut into six slices, with a single slice of tomato, leaf of arugula, and slice of prosciutto carefully positioned on each one. We also sprinkled the whole thing with parmesan and hot chili oil. It was tasty, but Michelle still claims it's "not a pizza!" For dessert, we had hibiscus sorbet, which tasted like fruit punch.

Today I wasn't feeling well, but we went to lunch, which was crowded with (perhaps) Sunday brunchers. It was pretty odd. We went to spend some time on the beach, which was nigh deserted, but it had become overcast and there was a stiff sea breeze, so we went into the pool instead. That was warm and also uncrowded. (We have no idea where all the people from lunch went, or what happened to the hordes of people we saw checking in Saturday night.) After some relaxing, we went to dinner at a local establishment right near the hotel, where I had tasty ramen and Michelle had "Okinawa soba", which didn't seem like buckwheat noodles, but skinny udon instead. While there, we and the other patrons were "serenaded" by a drunk, toothless man on a Japanese samisen-type thing, along with his drunk, dancing friend. Fortunately one woman gave him some money, which we assumed was for beer, but it also made him stop.

Another trip to Lawson's, and now we have a new supply of sunblock, ice cream, and triangle snacks.

Getsu no hamabe de nemuru

Today we slept in, went to lunch (tasty buffet), then hit the beach. The water was not what one would call warm, but much better than Reveeah Beach (and crystal clear). We managed to find some sunscreen, so we didn't get too fried. It's a very small bottle, though; this is either because most Japanese have little surface area, or they don't actually take off their clothes at the beach. (Or maybe they don't use it.) Anyway, we had to buy a couple more.

I've posted some photos of the beach and hotel for your viewing enjoyment.

After the beach, we hit the pool, which was nicely heated and somehow nearly deserted. I think we've arrived just at the start of the season, so maybe no one will be here this week and we'll have the place to ourselves. Probably everyone is off in Kyoto looking at cherry blossoms, but at least we're warm.

For dinner we did some more exploring, and found a wacky touristy restaurant called Jam. It was sort of a Hawaiian- or island- (or maybe Okinawan-)themed Japanese steakhouse, where you select a course including a steak or seafood and the food is prepared at a grill in front of you. It's like Benihana, but without the goofy theatrics. The ambience was nice, and the food was very good. Michelle liked the aquarium in the coolest bathroom ever. The men's room didn't have any aquarium, but the sinks were giant sea clam shells.

We're stuffed and sleepy. Tomorrow more of the same.

Okinawa ho!

Today we somehow managed to pack up, check out of the hotel, and make the long bus ride from Kyoto to Osaka Kansai airport in time for our flight to Okinawa. After the sake fest of the previous night, I'm still very impressed that we made it.

The JAL flight to Naha, Okinawa was pleasant. Michelle was amazed by the efficient yet very pleasant and polite security. It was almost like they were in customer service rather than security. Eric enjoyed watching the 700 people get off the plane before we boarded. (It was a very large plane for a two-hour trip, but then again they use 747s for the 45 minute flight between Osaka and Tokyo.) At the Okinawa airport, Michelle was impressed by the large, multi-chromatic array of real orchids. Her mom wouldn't have made it out of the airport. Alas, we didn't take photos, but hopefully on the way back.

Okinawa seems like an interesting place. The bus ride to the hotel showed some interesting scenery, but many of the buildings seem a bit run-down. It is, I believe, the poorest Japanese prefecture, relying on certain agricultural products for commerce. Tourism is now an important industry, but that's not necessarily a good thing.

We arrived at Moonbeach Hotel around 5:30 pm, about an hour before sunset. The hotel is probably typical of the resorts that sprang up post-war, but the beach is great and the water is a beautiful aqua-marine (imagine that). The western exposure promises some nice sunsets (and we have an ocean-view room). We took some photos, but we'll post them tomorrow.

For dinner, we gave the hotel restaurants a pass and wandered off-campus to look for one of the fabled Okinawa A&W's. We didn't find one, but we found an Italian place with a very enthusiastic hostess. She taught us the Japanese for "walnut" (kurumi; we taught her the English), which we enjoyed with gorgonzola cheese on a pizza. We also discovered the Okinawa sweet potato, imo, which seems very popular as an ice cream (it's purple, too). After dinner we had largely forgotten our unpleasant morning-after-sake (sake no ato no asa, aka bleah).

Onsen to sake

Today was our last full day in Kyoto, and probably our last chance to visit a natural hot spring (onsen) before leaving for Okinawa. Before leaving the hotel, we noticed a hawk circling in the strong breeze over the river right outside our room. I tried to take some photos but don't think they came out very well. Take a look at those and the other photos from the day.

We took a two-car train north out of Kyoto, to the small town of Kurama in the mountains. The hour-long ride was a lot of fun, with some very nice scenery and occasional snow showers. (The weather had changed overnight, and a strong northwesterly breeze was causing some "ocean effect" snow squalls in the mountains.) After arriving at the end of the line with a handful of other tourists (mostly Japanese), we walked a little bit up the main road of the sleepy village, which looked not unlike a Pennsylvania town. The town policeman was sitting by the side of the road and greeted us as we passed. We found the hot spring spa, which comprises an inn with indoor and outdoor baths and various other relaxation amenities.

The outdoor hot spring bath was what we came for, and the weather turned out to be excellent for it. The men's and women's baths were separate, which is typical in Japan since WWII, so we went our separate ways. After showering thoroughly at a sit-down washing station we were each sufficiently cleansed and mentally prepared to soak. The water was nice and warm, and soon after Eric got in, there was a brief snow squall. (Michelle was still discovering the ropes and showering, apparently.) The cool snow and breeze mixed with the hot water and steam was something to experience. Michelle got a snow squall a bit later, and liked the idea that she could sit starkers outside in the snow and not be cold. She also thought the white snow against the green mountains was beautiful.

After a couple hours of soaking, showering, sitting, and soaking, we recovened and returned through town to the station. The policeman was still there, but had switched to the other side of the road, maybe in preparation for rush hour. The train ride back was nice after the relaxing soak, and we spent a little while shopping and wandering in Kyoto. We also went to a tea shop and sampled some of the offerings.

For dinner we met a former colleague of Michelle's "cousin" Jerry. He's from Alabama, is working in Osaka, and speaks fluent Japanese. He and his girlfriend took us to a restaurant on an old Kyoto street, where we had some great shabu-shabu. After that we went to a nearby sake bar, and had some delicious (and not-so-delicious) sake, and probably too much. The evening was a lot of fun, and we hope to meet up with them again sometime. (These things have a strange way of happening, in any event.)