Sakura, Bunraku, and Sayonara, Nihon!

For our last day in Japan, we did some administrative things (or tried to), and managed to see some cherry blossoms which were finally out in Osaka. Not exactly the full experience we had hoped for, but better than nothing. Foregoing more time in Kyoto for our Okinawa trip was definitely worthwhile, and I have a feeling we lucked out with the weather the particular week we chose. In any event, I have some photos of cherry (sakura) blossoms, as well as Mt. Fuji from the homeward-bound plane.

Our last afternoon we met up with Norbert-san for a couple hours of bunraku, Japanese puppet theater. The story, called "Sugawara Denju Tenarai Kagami" or "Sugawara's Secrets of Calligraphy", was one of the masterpieces of the bunraku repertoire and included everything one could want in a puppet show (treachery, dishonor, a birthday party, pretty ladies, puppet fights, and ritual suicide). To be less waggish, the puppetry was really remarkable, with three puppeteers controlling each (approximately half-life-sized) puppet. The main puppeteer was fully visible, and he controlled the major movement of the puppets, as well as the subtle artistry and facial expressions. The two helpers controlled the left arm and the legs, and they wore black outfits with black hoods, which was actually a bit disconcerting. Black is apparently the traditional color of invisibility, though they were clearly visible.

The dialogue was sung or chanted by one or several joruri reciters, situated on a platform well to the right of the main stage. Sometimes one reciter played all parts, varying his voice for different characters (men and women). At one point there were four reciters, one for each character, adding volume to an argument and fight scene. The recitation reflected the emotion of the puppet, with incredible synchronization considering neither the reciter nor puppeteer were looking at each other. In fact, the facial expressions of the puppet were mirrored by the reciter, and it was interesting to watch them cry or laugh. (The puppeteers were mostly expressionless, with one or two exceptions.)

The shamisen player sat with the reciters, and provided musical accompaniment and sound effects (wind, battle sounds, and the like). These three skills (puppeteer, recitation, and shamisen) take years to master, and at least in the old days a trio of artists would often work together throughout their careers, forming the necessary relationship to perform this difficult art.

Today we returned to the States, our vacation and my six-month stint in Japan both completed. Here ends the blog, thank you all for your interest and your emails of support! It was quite an experience, and I'm sure I'll be returning, though for periods of briefer duration, in the near future.

Osaka ni Kaerimasu

Yesterday was our last full day in Okinawa, and we did the usual routine of getting up for lunch (brunch, really) then lying on the beach all day. Swimming and rafting were intermixed. The weather was beautiful, and the water was even warmish, depending on whom you ask.

For dinner we finally tried Okinawan cuisine at a local place called Ura-Niwa, or "backyard garden". It was, indeed, in the backyard of a store on the main drag, and it was a lot of fun. I'd heard pork was a specialty of Okinawan cuisine, moreso than Japanese cuisine, and the grilled pork in miso sauce was really, really good. So was the fish dish we got, along with the appetizers of tuna tartar, carpacchio, and various other things I can no longer remember. I'm getting hungry just thinking about it. After dinner we stopped at the Blue Seal ice cream/sushi shop. Michelle had chocolate and "sugar cane", which was yummy. I had squid in a sugar cone. Just kidding. It was actually a waffle cone.

Today we checked out of the hotel, and spent a couple hours enjoying the beach before boarding the bus for the airport and returning to Osaka. I have some photos of these activities, including the collection of orchids at the Okinawa Naha airport. Quite somethin'.

Hamabe ya umi ya nikkou

It was a rough day today. Busy, busy, busy. First, the weather had cleared up, and it was bright and sunny. So we went straight from brunch to the beach, where we spent the rest of the daylight hours. We did a lot of work lying on the beach, lying on a raft, and floating in the water. Michelle did see a wacky fish, yellow with some stripeys and a big black spot. It swam off before she could ask what it was.

Aside from that adventure, we watched the sunset and then had dinner at a BBQ (Korean-style) place on the hotel terrace. We have photos of both of those events.

Hana wa kirei desu

Yesterday the weather wasn't quite as sunny as Friday, but it was nice and warm, so we spent a long time on the beach and wandering around on the lava rocks and tidal pools. It was good to spend time in the sun, lying on a bobbing raft. I'm falling asleep just thinking about it. We also took some photos of the multitudes of hibiscus and other flowers around the hotel grounds.

For dinner we went back to the Italian place to try some different pizzas. The hostess was happy to see us back. We got a very good four-cheese pizza, along with what Michelle calls the "stupidest pizza ever", a puffy crust deflated at the table (ala a poori) and cut into six slices, with a single slice of tomato, leaf of arugula, and slice of prosciutto carefully positioned on each one. We also sprinkled the whole thing with parmesan and hot chili oil. It was tasty, but Michelle still claims it's "not a pizza!" For dessert, we had hibiscus sorbet, which tasted like fruit punch.

Today I wasn't feeling well, but we went to lunch, which was crowded with (perhaps) Sunday brunchers. It was pretty odd. We went to spend some time on the beach, which was nigh deserted, but it had become overcast and there was a stiff sea breeze, so we went into the pool instead. That was warm and also uncrowded. (We have no idea where all the people from lunch went, or what happened to the hordes of people we saw checking in Saturday night.) After some relaxing, we went to dinner at a local establishment right near the hotel, where I had tasty ramen and Michelle had "Okinawa soba", which didn't seem like buckwheat noodles, but skinny udon instead. While there, we and the other patrons were "serenaded" by a drunk, toothless man on a Japanese samisen-type thing, along with his drunk, dancing friend. Fortunately one woman gave him some money, which we assumed was for beer, but it also made him stop.

Another trip to Lawson's, and now we have a new supply of sunblock, ice cream, and triangle snacks.